There are people who say the flat overhand knot (aka EDK) is dangerous. Others who use it all the time without worry. So, is it safe? In what applications is it appropriate? Let’s take a look.
I produced this video in 2017. In the video I mention that my favorite version is the flat double overhand. I quote some testing done by Grant Prattley in New Zealand. I did not mention in the video, but I knew at the time that the guys at Rigging for Rescue in Ouray Colorado had also tested it.
Recently someone posted a comment on the video on my YouTube channel pointing out that Grant did more testing in 2020 to see how some versions performed with ropes of different diameter.
Grant’s tests showed the result is different when tying what he referred to as 10mm on 9mm vs 9mm on 10mm. One is recommended and the other is not. I am not going to try to figure out which is which. And I am not going to stop using the double overhand. I have used it with 9.5mm and 8mm combos with no problems.
BUT … Having said that, please refer to the video from 0:50 to 2:30 for what I consider the only proper way to use any of these “flat” (or offset) bends.
NOTE: The stacked overhand is also a popular choice.
Hi Rich! Just want to clarify the rigging at 2:19. If I have a long rappel scenario (i.e. I have two 200ft ropes, the rap is 195ft) and I want to rig releasable…I’d imagine rigging basically the same setup (MMO on the quicklink with the orange rope feeding into the bag) except replace that flat overhand with a rethreaded figure 8 bend, then have rappellers rig their descenders into the green rope under the figure 8 bend. Correct? Assume you’re still staying away from the double EDK here out of principle because it’s a knot rather than a bend (even though looks strong enough not to roll). Seems like it would be harder to untie anyway, but was kinda curious to hear your thoughts.
Good stuff, figured it would be along that line. Thanks Rich!
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EDK REVISITED
I produced this video in 2017. In the video I mention that my favorite version is the flat double overhand. I quote some testing done by Grant Prattley in New Zealand. I did not mention in the video, but I knew at the time that the guys at Rigging for Rescue in Ouray Colorado had also tested it.
Recently someone posted a comment on the video on my YouTube channel pointing out that Grant did more testing in 2020 to see how some versions performed with ropes of different diameter.
https://overtheedgerescue.com/rope-rescue/bends-joining-ropes-update/
Grant’s tests showed the result is different when tying what he referred to as 10mm on 9mm vs 9mm on 10mm. One is recommended and the other is not. I am not going to try to figure out which is which. And I am not going to stop using the double overhand. I have used it with 9.5mm and 8mm combos with no problems.
BUT … Having said that, please refer to the video from 0:50 to 2:30 for what I consider the only proper way to use any of these “flat” (or offset) bends.
NOTE: The stacked overhand is also a popular choice.
Hi Rich! Just want to clarify the rigging at 2:19. If I have a long rappel scenario (i.e. I have two 200ft ropes, the rap is 195ft) and I want to rig releasable…I’d imagine rigging basically the same setup (MMO on the quicklink with the orange rope feeding into the bag) except replace that flat overhand with a rethreaded figure 8 bend, then have rappellers rig their descenders into the green rope under the figure 8 bend. Correct? Assume you’re still staying away from the double EDK here out of principle because it’s a knot rather than a bend (even though looks strong enough not to roll). Seems like it would be harder to untie anyway, but was kinda curious to hear your thoughts.
I would use the same rigging, only change the bend used to connect orange rope to green rope.
Good stuff, figured it would be along that line. Thanks Rich!