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Crab Claw Via Ferrata Lanyard

I found this video on YouTube providing instructions for tying a crab claw lanyard. Nothing wrong with it in the context in which it is presented. He mentions moving ACROSS a via ferrata and there is footage in the video showing people moving horizontally on cables. But an important caution needs to be added because there are via ferratas that also involve moving UP.

See the illustrations from Petzl below the video. When moving UP on a via ferrata, there is a risk of fall factor greater than 2, in which case you need to have a lanyard that provides for energy absorption.

Please share your comments below the video.


  1. Some additional thoughts …

    1. I might choose a butterfly knot rather than a figure eight for the connection to my harness. That would make me feel more comfortable if I wanted to load my lanyard in 3 directions.

    2. I might choose a stainless steel quick link in place of a carabiner for connecting the lanyard to my harness. Unlikely you will need to put it on and take it off very often.

  2. In some places on either of the Ouray Via Feratta’s there are, indeed, upward climbs. On some vertical spans I’d estimate greater than 10 feet. This would create a 20 foot fall. Having only a static system could very well be fatal. They do, however, require a lanyard with an energy absorber (screamer) and post Rangers to be sure. Telluride has no such requirement.
    I’m curious on how to calculate what a 20 foot fall using a static line would create in force?