In this monologue episode, Rich discusses the American Canyon Rating System and its development. He explains that rating systems for canyons face challenges due to the diverse environments and varying conditions. The American system includes two major components: one for technicality of terrain or rope work (numbered 1-4) and one for water (A, B, C). Rich also mentions a French rating system that was introduced a few years after the American system. He emphasizes the importance of understanding the rating system, assessing one’s skills and abilities, and asking the right questions when planning a canyon descent.
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American Rating System
Numeral for Terrain/Rope
Class 1 – Non-technical; no rope required. May involve some easy scrambling requiring the occasional use of hands for balance and support. Travel is possible up or down canyon. See route description for more information.
Class 2 – Scrambling, easy vertical or near vertical climbing and/or down-climbing requiring frequent use of hands. Rope recommended for hand lines, belays, lowering packs and possible emergency use. Travel is possible up or down canyon. See route description for more information.
Class 3 – Exposed technical climbing. Down-climbing could be difficult and dangerous; most people will rappel. Rope required for belays and single-pitch rappels. Obvious natural or fixed anchors. Retreat up canyon will require ascending fixed ropes. Basic pothole escape techniques (i.e. partner assist, counter- weights) may also be required. See route description for more information.
Class 4 – Route may involve any combination of the following: 1) difficult and exposed free climbing and/or down-climbing, 2) climbing using direct aid, 3) multi-pitch rappels, 4) complex rope work (i.e. guided rappels, deviations, rebelays), 5) obscure or indistinct natural anchors, 6) advanced problem-solving and anchor-building skills. See route description for more information.
Alpha for Water
Class A – Normally dry or very little water. Dry falls. Water, if present, can be avoided and/or is very shallow. Shoes may get wet, but no wetsuit or drysuit required.
Class B – Normally has water with no current or very light current. Still pools. Falls normally dry or running at a trickle. Expect to do some deep wading and/or swimming. Wetsuit or drysuit may be required depending on water and air temperatures.
Class C – Normally has water with current. Waterfalls. Expect to do some deep wading and/or swimming in current. Wetsuit or drysuit may be required depending on water and air temperatures. Class C canyons may be rated more precisely using the following system:
C1 – Normally has water with light to moderate current. Easy water hazards.
C2 – Normally has water with strong current. Water hazards like hydraulics and siphons require advanced skills and special care.
C3 – Normally has water with very strong current. Dangerous water hazards. Experts only.
C4 – Extreme problems and hazards will be difficult to overcome, even for experienced experts with strong swimming skills.
Grade / Duration
HALF Day
Grade I – Short. Normally requires only a couple of hours.
Grade II – Normally requires a half-day.
FULL DAY
Grade III – Normally requires most of a day.
Grade IV – Expected to take one long full day. Get an early start. Bring a headlamp. Plan for possible bivy.
MULTI DAY
Grade V – Expected to take an average one and a half days.
Grade VI – Expected to take two or more days.
French Rating System
V for Verticality
V1 – No rappels, rope normally unnecessary for progress. No climbing or down climbing
V2 – Rappel anchors are very easily reached. Rappels are very easy ≤ 10 m. Easy climbing and down climbing with little exposure.
V3 – Low Vertical flow. Rappels land in pools with calm water. Rappel anchors are easily reached. Rappels are easy. ≤ 30 m. Rappels are separated by enough room to regroup. Setting safety lines is easy. Climbing moves to grade 12. A little exposure, which may require the use of a rope.
V4- Low to moderate vertical flow that can begin to cause imbalance or entrapment. Rappels anchors are difficult to reach and/or Rappels > 30 m. Setting safety lines is difficult and delicate. Multi-pitch rappels with relatively spacious re-belay stations. Rough rock edges requiring rope wear management. Rappels with obscured sections and/or landings pools. Landing pools have current. Climbing moves to grade 15 or A0. Exposed and/or requires belaying and protection.
V5 – Medium to high vertical flow. Crossing the flow requires correct route selection and balance. Multi-pitch Rappels may have hanging re-belays. Requirement to cross pools with current during the descent. Canyon surface is very slippery and/or has significant obstacles Retrieving the rope is difficult or has to be done whilst swimming. Exposed climbing moves up to grade 18 or A1
V6- Strong to very strong vertical flow sustained waterfalls Crossing the flow is very difficult, requiring effective management of selected route and / or balance. Requirement to build advanced and/or delicate natural anchors Rappel anchors are very difficult to reach. Setting hand lines is very difficult and very delicate. Exposed climbing moves to grade 19 or A2. Canyon surface exceptionally slippery and/or loose. Rappel landing pools are turbulent and/or with significant current.
V7- Very strong to extremely strong vertical flow. Very sustained waterfalls that lead into one another without a gap. Crossing the flow is extremely difficult; requiring anticipation and specific rope management, manoeuvre, balance, support and pace. Exposed climbing moves > grade 19 or A2 Limited visibility of route and frequent obstacles. Requirement to move through powerful current at the end of a rappel or rappel landing in a very turbulent pool with powerful current. Control of breathing: sections where you must hold your breath.
A for Aquatic
A1- No water or calm water. Swimming optional.
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